Erstellt am: 24. 5. 2013 - 19:03 Uhr

Walking the North-South Korean line

Reality Check: visiting the DMZ, the Demilitarized Zone which divides the Korean Peninsula.

"It's spooky, bizarre, and it also has this kind of nostalgic feel - these are the forces of evil and these are the forces of good and here is the border between them", says Thomas Seifert, deputy Editor in Chief of the Wiener Zeitung, recently back from a press trip to the border between North and South Korea and the Demilitarized Zone with separates the two countries. Demilitarized in name, but not in nature - it is in fact the most heavily militarized border in the world. Thomas Seifert joined a group of journalists who were taken by bus from Seoul to the DMZ. Their tour guide was Specialist Brendan Demeo from the US Army.

Thomas Seifert, Wiener Zeitung

The "Bridge of No Return" via which prisoners captured during the Korean War returned home, but their decision about which side was home was final.

Thomas Seifert, Wiener Zeitung

Specialist Brendan Demeo

The tour included visiting the Joint Security Area, on the site of what used to be the village of Panmunjom, where in 1953 the Armistice Agreement which put an end to fighting in the Korean War was signed. There has never been a formal peace deal, so technically North and South Korea are still at war. The border runs through the middle of the JAS and right through the middle of several huts which are used for meetings between military officers from the North and the UN Command.

Thomas Seifert, Wiener Zeitung

Blue huts in the Joint Security Area at Panmunjom. The low concrete barrier between them marks the border.

Sad place

When you think of the belligerent rhetoric and the kind of nuclear-testing, missile-launching posturing that North Korea likes to engage in, there is a certain thrill to visiting the DMZ. There's also a certain cynicism, because for Thomas Seifert "the place is utterly sad. It's about a country which is divided by geopolitical forces, which is completely outdated". Not that long ago fortified borders divided Europe along the Iron Curtain, but they disappeared more than 20 years ago. The DMZ, says Thomas, shouldn't be there: "it just makes one sad to think that this kind of place still exists."

Thomas Seifert, Wiener Zeitung

Thomas Seifert (centre)

Tour guide Specialist Demeo recounts bizarre stories of mind-bogglingly childish behaviour, like the one about a meeting of officers from both sides which lasted 11 hours, and during which no-one took a toilet break for fear of appearing weak. There's also the fact that one of the grey North Korean buildings is known as the "Monkey House" because its occupants frequently make childish gestures, like the "throat-slashing" gesture, towards the American UN soldiers. And to make this bizarre tourist-in-a-potential-war-zone experience complete there is also a souvenir shop where you can buy T-shirts, mugs, and all sorts of other DMZ memorabilia including pieces of concertina wire from the fence.

Thomas Seifert, Wiener Zeitung

The view into North Korea.

Thomas Seifert, Wiener Zeitung

Souvenirs, anyone? Take a piece of the DMZ home with you.